Events

Fashion in the Capital 2013 – Second Showcase

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Another day another show. I didn’t go backstage today – I spent most of the day setting up this website eating cornchips straight out of the bag and editing photos in trackpants and a kowtow bathrobe-like hoodie before heading down to see the second show of Fashion in the Capital 2013. All of the non-glamorous parts of being a blogger – I keep it real yo.

The intention was to get those post up a long time ago but life happens, and inevitably website takes a back seat. By all rights I should be sleeping right now given I have an unreasonably early flight to catch tomorrow morning, but I’m still amped from my afternoon coffees so I might as well keep writing. To the business-type person whose shoulder I may end up sleeping against on the 40 minute flight up to Auckland – sorry.

Before I continue, here’s some runway-appropriate music that I’ve been jamming to in the last few days to accompany the post.

The second showcase of FITC definitely featured designers aimed towards a younger audience – much more younger judging by the first models to hit the runway. I did take quite a few more photos, so click on the photos in the post to see more.

The show started with the Design Loft group show, with Mavis & Osborn hitting the runway with these adorable tykes. For a bit of background, the Design Loft is a hybrid store/workroom started by Tamzin Hawkins, the designer of Mavis & Osborn. All of the designers stocked at the Loft are locally-based, so if you want something that’s a little different and off-beat, check it out.

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Predictably (and completely understandably), the audience flipped out over seeing these adorable kids hit the runway wearing equally adorable Mavis & Osborn gear. What I love about Mavis & Osborn is that it’s 100% made in New Zealand from top quality fabrics, and that once you see an item you like, you can have it tailored and measured to you. By you I mean your incredibly lucky kids of course. You know those cringe photos from childhood where you’re wearing Planet 8 hoodies? (No? Well, me neither…) Damn these kids have it sussed, the colour palettes are so spot on and who knew linen (I think) looks so damn good on kids too?

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I saw some kids clothes that I really liked so I had Tamzin from Mavis & Osborn up-size it to me, so if you liked some of the outfits and asked nicely she might just consider making a one-off just for you. I may have to get an adult-sized version of the grey panda bear crew jersey made for me.

Next up as part of the Design Cartel show we saw a few pieces from B A Rooney Clothing and Jacque Shaw.  I’d seen a few pieces from Blair (the ‘B’ in the B A Rooney), so I was looking forward to seeing his stuff on the runway. I liked his navy dress below, definitely feeling the angular shapes resulting from the wrap-around pulling the fabric in then out the other side.

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L to R: B A Rooney, Jacque Shaw, then Jacque Shaw again.

Having see her previous collection, I was surprised when I first saw pink (well, any colour other than neon) in Jacque Shaw’s latest collection. Jacque’s dresses are hard to capture in a photo – the white band going down the dress isn’t a trim or print, there are some seriously clever straps that tie around and across at the back which gives the dress shape and makes for some interesting detailing as well.

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Props for the insanely good French seams. The devil (the beauty) is in the details with Jacque’s stuff.

Next up we were treated to selection of designers stocked at Coco Boutique. Situated on Willis Street, Coco Boutique has become renown for stocking timelessly elegant pieces and it has built up a sizeable (and very loyal) following.

First thing’s first – in my Style Collective article about the Coco store relaunch I mistakenly credited this beautiful olive-coloured silk gown to Zimmermann when it was in fact Juliette Hogan. So my bad, so here’s a photo showing why I raved about it when I saw it instore:

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Here were some of the other pieces that caught my eye:

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The Service Depot stocks a fine selection of New Zealand designers, and in their show I recognised pieces from Jimmy D, Otsu, Maaike and Lela Jacobs. I like stores that have a strong sense of identity. The thoughtful selection of timelessly contemporary pieces from New Zealand designers, whose pieces are displayed as if it were an art installation makes it a real joy to browse when you’re in store. I love the long, collared shirt on the left – it doesn’t show particularly well in the photo but the rest of the shirt is sheer so it drapes beautifully over the rest of her outfit. I’m a sucker for really nice greys so the linen t-shirt by Lela Jacobs in the centre and the Otsu dress on the right also caught my eye (I only noticed afterwards how well the untreated wood on the necklace goes with the grey).  Turns out the linen shirt is reversible (you’re basically get two t-shirts of different greys for the price of one – bargain). Love the contrast of texture between the linen and the shiny leather vest too. The eyes on the bags freak me out a bit, but I think that’s the point.

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I’m not even sure how the Lela Jacobs dress in the middle even works which intrigues me – I hope you get instructions like when you buy a DIY kitset or something. It seemed to flow like silk on Tatiana and the print resembled beautiful Indian ink swirls.  I can’t believe Jimmy D used a bright yellow in his collection. From what I could tell it’s a box-cut, asymmetrical dress where the front half is canary yellow and the back half is a muted grey. The beauty is how you decide to tie the straps together – depending on which way you tie it, it pulls bits of yellow onto the grey, or vice versa while giving the dress more shape at the same time. I love intelligent clothing, and the yellow works very well with the grey. Good call.

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I have to show you guys a close up of this print. On first glance the bold geometrical lines, combined with filigree detailing looked vaguely like an oriental woodcut, but the cross and the hands? Perhaps it’s more of reference to the Latin American adaptation of Catholic mysticism. Whatever the cultural reference I really like it.

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We also saw a selection of designers stocked at the Design Cartel. Not to be confused with the Design Loft, this store is situated on Willis Street right by Coco Boutique, and stocks a variety of clothing and jewellery designers from around New Zealand. I wasn’t actually sure who the designers were – I know the dress on the left is Mardle – I love this X-panelling, and the crane print is just beautiful.  I liked the more structured cropped angular blazer with the pastel dress on the right as well, although perhaps it would have been better accessorised with more contrasting jewellery rather than adding to the pastel.

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I’m a sucker for details like lining.

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We also saw a sample of the SS13/14 collections stocked at Goodness.  Goodness is a store in Petone and College Street in Wellington which stocks a range of established as well as some emerging designers, both from New Zealand and from around the world.  To be honest I wasn’t particularly familiar with the pieces that I saw, but these were some of the outfits that caught my eye. And no, not all of the models included a hat, but I just happened to like the looks that included the hat. Goddamn that white blazer with the rolled up grey linen pants is so cool – I’d make this into a guys outfit, replace the wide-brimmed hat with a fedora and wear it in a heartbeat. Summery without the floral/pastel explosion – perfect.

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Here’s a closeup of Tatiana wearing one of the hats. Dem cheekbones. 

Upon reflection, I think it does make sense for stores to run their own runway shows. It’s much more than a marketing opportunity for their upcoming stock – it also showcases the store’s identity and their aesthetic. I think the audience left the show with a good sense of what they’re about and what they’re offering for the summer ahead, and hopefully they also found a few local stores to check out as well.

– Chris.

 

Author: Chris Park

One half of the Park Brothers. Purveyor of banter, curator of misc. Manage comms for @BuoyandMine. Read More


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